Fountain in the Children’s Garden in the Conservatory

photo credit: unforth

Water Curtain

photo credit: unforth

Lotus in a Pond

photo credit: Sudhamshu

Morning Glory

photo credit: sherrattsam

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photo credit: Ganymedes Costagravas

photo credit: La Citta Vita

photo credit: eli.pousson

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You don’t have to be a wildlife expert to know that after generations of dwelling in close proximity to humans, modern deer aren’t afraid of us anymore. What’s more, they no longer fear many of the traditional repellents some homeowners still use to protect shrubs, trees and landscaping. So when cool weather comes along and the natural landscape dies, deer have to start foraging for food sources. And they aren’t afraid to walk right into your yard and help themselves to your well-watered, well-established evergreens.

Even just a few deer can cause significant damage to your landscaping. “A single whitetail deer can consume, on average, 8 to 12 pounds of foliage a day,” says James Messina of Messina Wildlife Management. “In many areas of the country, deer overpopulation is a serious problem. With nowhere to go and not much left to eat in the dead of winter, deer can wreak havoc on shrubs, trees and gardens, and destroy new buds and leaves before they have a chance to grow, ruining your prospects for any spring growth.”

Hungry and bold, deer move into residential areas in the winter, and the damage they do in the cold weather will affect your landscape’s health next spring. Traditional animal repellents are also less effective than they were decades ago, Messina notes.

“That’s because those repellents rely on a bad smell — like the stench of a rotting carcass — to fool animals into thinking a predator’s kill is in the area and the predator may be returning for it,” he says. “But the number of predators has actually declined, and deer know it. They’re less afraid of predators, so relying on scare tactics has a greater tendency to fail over time.”

Some wildlife has also built up a resistance to chemical deterrents. Plus, increasingly eco-conscious homeowners prefer not to put potentially harmful chemicals into the environment. Other more lethal alternatives are not only inhumane but illegal in most parts of the country.

More homeowners are turning to organic alternatives, like Deer Stopper, a repellent formulated from plant extracts. This organic option works because it confronts deer by using their natural repulsion to certain plant smells and tastes rather than relying on fear.

“We know that deer will eat over 500 different types of plants,” Messina says. “Normally, they’re quite discriminating. But in fall and winter, when food is harder to find, they become less picky and much more of a threat to suburban landscapes. Still, like many wild animals, deer rely on taste and smell to judge if a food may be harmful to them. If your backyard foliage tastes or smells unpleasant to them, one bite and they’ll move on.”

An effective taste deterrent, Deer Stopper is 100 percent organic and completely safe for use on all types of plants — from vegetables to trees, flowers to shrubs. The Organic Materials Review Institute lists it as approved for use by organic growers. The smell- and taste-based technology also eliminates the need for a foul odor, so Deer Stopper actually smells good to humans. Lightly mist vegetation once a month, even during the cold and snowy winter to keep deer away all season long. To learn more, or to find retail locations, visit www.messinawildlife.com.

“In the early 1900s, there were probably only about half a million deer spread out over the country,” Messina says. “Today, there are more than 15 million. Deer, it turns out, adapt quite well to life in suburbia. Keeping them away from residential and commercial landscaping can help everyone — deer and homeowners — co-exist more happily together.”

Courtesy of ARAcontent

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Routine maintenance of these structures – often made from Western red cedar – can ensure they weather the winter well and are ready for you to enjoy come spring. Plus, beautiful, well-kept outdoor structures enhance curb appeal and your home’s resale value.

“Western red cedar is a popular material for outdoor structures because of its natural durability and beauty,” says Paul Mackie, or “Mr. Cedar” as he’s known in the Western Red Cedar Lumber Association (WRCLA). “Preparing your outdoor living structure for winter is an important step to help maintain that beauty.”

Mackie and the wood experts of the WRCLA offer the following tips for winterizing your wooden outdoor structures:

* Clean leaves, dirt and pine needles from between the boards of your deck. This will increase airflow around the boards and reduce the opportunity for mold and mildew to grow. Even though Western red cedar contains natural chemicals that resist insects and decay, excessive dirt, debris and moisture can still harm the wood.

* Remove planters and flower pots – even those that are just ornamental – from the deck. Moisture can collect under planters or pots and leave stains on your deck. If it’s not possible to remove a planter from the deck, or you just have nowhere else to store flower pots, be sure to elevate them off the wood. Built-in planter boxes can be an attractive, permanent alternative than portable planters or pots.

* Clean wooden structures with a broom, a garden sprayer, a little bleach and a water hose. Kill any existing mold or mildew with a solution of three parts water and one part oxygen bleach applied with your garden sprayer. While the bleach in the solution is very dilute, be sure to avoid excessive spraying of the solution and keep it away from children, animals and plants. Rinse the treated areas with clean water once the mold and mildew are gone.

* Don’t pressure wash Western red cedar. “You can make it look like your grandfather’s corduroy pants,” Mackie says. Pressure washing can also disrupt the wood’s natural moisture resistance by forcing water into the wood. If you absolutely must pressure wash, keep the washer set below 800 pounds per square inch.

* Water, pollen and mold tend to collect and sit on horizontal surfaces throughout the summer. Left over the winter, they become a harmful cocktail that can speed deterioration of otherwise healthy lumber.

Winterizing outdoor structures is simple and quick – and ensures your outdoor living space will be in great shape, and ready for you to enjoy, once warm weather returns.

Courtesy of ARAcontent

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Compost bins and tumblers are a hassle-free way to create good-for-your-garden compost.

Leaves turn brilliant colors, evenings cool and the kids go back to school. So long summer, hello fall garden cleanup.

You may already know that composting is a better way to deal with bags of leaves and backyard waste. But if you’ve avoided composting because it seems like too much work and mess — or you just weren’t sure how to start — fall is a great time to try your hand at turning this year’s yard debris into next year’s natural fertilizer.

Composting delivers many benefits. Modern gardeners face strict waste removal ordinances in many communities. Plus, growing environmental consciousness inspires gardeners to minimize their eco footprint while cleaning up the back yard. Composting is a cost-effective, eco-friendly way to convert your yard debris into “black gold” – a nutrient rich, all-natural, safe fertilizer for next spring’s planting season.

Fall, by nature, is an exceptional time to begin composting. Dry leaves, grass clippings and woody materials represent a large percentage of total yard waste. Each offers either the carbon or nitrogen components necessary for the decomposition process that takes place during composting. Add air and water, and you’re well on your way to rich, loamy compost.

The trick to successful composting is to maintain a working balance between carbon and nitrogen. A simple rule of thumb is to use one-third green and two-thirds brown materials. This allows oxygen to penetrate and nourish the organisms that reside within the material.

You don’t have to live with an unsightly, foul-smelling compost heap to do your part for the environment. Compost bins and tumblers are a hassle-free way to create good-for-your-garden compost. Bins are basic, but tumblers add an element of motion, something that can enhance the quality of your compost.

Tumblers add an element of motion to enhance the quality of your compost.

The Tumbleweed Compost Tumbler by Clear Air Gardening is a good example of how tumblers work to produce great compost. The Tumbleweed holds 58 gallons worth of kitchen scraps and yard waste. When full and finished breaking down, each batch contains enough compost for a medium sized garden or flowerbed, or a 10 feet by 10 feet area of lawn.

Unlike typical tumblers, the Tumbleweed features a stainless steel rod running through the middle of the bin that helps break down materials even more quickly than tumblers without a rod. The twist-lock, animal resistant lids on each end make filling and emptying the compost tumbler simple. Built-in vents allow rainwater to drain easily, keeping your compost moist, aerated and odorless. The end result is organic, nutrient rich compost in as few as 21 days. All that’s required is a daily spin of the tumbler.

Compost materials can be added to bins and tumblers year round. Although the process will naturally slow or cease in the winter when temperatures decline, the process will resume again in the spring and summer as temperatures slowly begin to rise.

First time composters may be surprised to find that finished compost smells earthy, fresh and natural. They may be even more surprised to learn that compost can suppress plant diseases and pests, reduce or eliminate the need for chemical fertilizers and increase water retention in the soil — all great benefits that ultimately save consumers money while safeguarding the environment.

Convenience and environmental stewardship aside, compost is essential to vibrant lawns and healthy gardens. The rich macro and micro nutrients in the well-aerated compost replenish the soil that grasses, shrubs, trees and flowers need to grow and fend off disease.

Compost started in fall can be used for planting fall bulbs, trees, transplants and as mulch to protect vegetation from winter’s cold. Fall leftovers can be used to prepare the soil in spring for vegetable gardens, flowerbeds and around trees and shrubs. As mulch, compost will retain moisture in the summer.

For more information on creating your own “black gold” by composting, visit www.cleanairgardening.com.

Courtesy of ARAnet

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Avoiding the 'Rakes and Pains' of Autumn Yard Work

As the leaves turn different colors and the weather becomes cooler, many Americans begin to engage in outdoor cleanup. Consider the number of Americans injured in yard work accidents every autumn and you may begin to suspect that “fall” is actually short for “pitfall.” Fall, it seems, is becoming the season for back injuries, tumbles from ladders and lawn mower accidents.

“Approximately 42 million people seek emergency room treatment for injuries each year, according to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention,” says Brett Taylor, MD, spokesperson for the American Academy of Orthopaedic Surgeons (AAOS). “Many of these injuries can happen while performing seemingly routine tasks, like autumn yard work.”

The AAOS offers a few simple tips to avoid common autumn injuries while in the yard:

Rakes and Pains

Brightly colored fallen leaves are one of the charms of autumn, but raking them also sends thousands of people to emergency rooms each year. Raking is vigorous exercise, and you should pay close attention to your arms and back to avoid injury.

To prevent injury from raking, be sure to:

* Warm up for at least 10 minutes with some stretching and light exercise.

* Use a rake that is comfortable for your height and strength. Wear gloves or use rakes with padded handles to prevent blisters.

* Keep your vision free of impediment, like hats or scarves and beware of large rocks, low branches, tree stumps or uneven surfaces.

* Vary your movement, alternating your leg and arm positions often. When picking up leaves, bend at the knees, not the waist.

* Wet leaves can be slippery; wear shoes or boots with slip-resistant soles.

* Do not overfill leaf bags, especially if the leaves are wet. To avoid back injury, you should be able to carry bags comfortably.

* Never throw leaves over your shoulder or to the side. The twisting motion required to do so places undue stress on your back.

Clean up that Lawn

It will soon be time to store the mower until spring, but chances are you will mow the grass a few more times before the snow falls. Or, you may use it to collect leaves or and lawn clippings. You may love your lawnmower, but keep in mind it is a powerful tool – one that can cause significant injury. In 2007, more than 225,000 people were injured by power, manual and riding lawn mowers, according to the Consumer Product Safety Commission.

To avoid lawnmower-related injuries be sure to:

* Make sure the engine is off and cool before you begin any maintenance work or refuel your lawnmower.

* Never use your hands or feet to clear debris from under a lawnmower. Use a stick or broom handle instead. Likewise, never touch the blades with your hands or feet, even if the engine is off. The blade can still move and cause serious injury.

* Never remove safety devices, shields or guards on switches.

* Do not leave a lawnmower running unattended.

* Wear protective gear like goggles and gloves, boots and long pants when mowing. Never mow barefoot or in sandals.

* Do not consume alcoholic beverages and mow.

Ladder Safety

Autumn is a great time to clear out gutters, check roof integrity and wash windows. More than 532,000 people were injured in falls from ladders in 2007, according to the Consumer Product Safety Commission.

To stay safe on a ladder:

* Inspect the ladder for loose screws, hinges or rungs. Clean off accumulated mud, dirt or liquids.

* Make sure all four legs rest on a firm, level surface. Avoid uneven ground or soft, muddy spots.

* Before you climb, be sure all ladder locks and safety braces are engaged.

* Never sit or stand on the top of the ladder or on its pail shelf. These areas were not designed to carry your weight.

* Choose the right ladder for the job. A step stool or utility ladder is good for working at low or medium heights, for jobs such as washing windows. Extension ladders are appropriate for outdoors to reach high places, for when you need to clean gutters or inspect the roof.

* Be aware of your balance. Be careful when moving items off a shelf while you’re standing on a ladder. If you have to stretch or lean to reach your work area, it would be safer to climb down and reposition the ladder closer to your work.

For more lawnmower or ladder safety tips, visit the American Academy of Orthopedic Surgeon’s Web site at www.orthoinfo.org.

Courtesy of ARAcontent

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Bark Mulch is not only a way to protect your flowers and create a layer of weed control but it is also a great way to decorate a space, tie in flower beds or create lovely walking paths through a garden or yard.

There are a number of different types of bark mulch including:

• Hemloch Bark Mulch:  This is one of the more popular mulch, it provides a vibrant color that ranges from a dark brown to a brownish red.  The mulch is usually preferred since it has a very beautiful smell and it decomposes slowly. This means, less time spent replenishing your mulch.  Another bonus with Hemloch Bark Mulch is that it is a “sliver-free” mulch and it provides all the benefits to your garden that other mulches do.
• Douglas Fir Bark Mulch: Another popular product that can bring a rich dark chocolate color with a hint of red to your garden.  It is a versatile mulch and it can be used for all of the same reasons that you would use any other mulch.  One of the biggest bonuses for Douglas Fir Bark Mulch is that you can purchase it as a shredded mulch and also as a nugget.
• Pine Bark Mulch:  This is one of the more cost effective mulches that you can buy.  It has a reddish brown color and is usually used to cover larger areas since it is a cheaper alternative to other bark mulches.
• Cedar Bark Mulch:  There are several types of Cedar Bark Mulch but one of the best cedar mulches is the Western Red Cedar Bark Mulch.  It is a reddish brown in color with just a slight touch of orange and has an excellent smell to it.  Cedar Bark Mulch is one of the most weather resistant of all mulches and you will find that fewer pieces will blow away during a wind storm.  The product also has a natural herbicide in the bark that helps control weeds in your garden.

And that was a run down of a few bark mulches that you can purchase.  If you are looking for cost effective, go with a pine mulch but if price is no deterrent, then by all means go with whatever will look good in your landscaped space.

Sirena Van Schaik

Photo Credit

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When it was time to take the pool down, we were left with that horrible brown spot in the middle of our lawn (okay, not quite the middle because I had it off to the side). Still, the lawn looks awful and there is very little that I can do to fix it now.

Next year, however, I can ensure that my lawn comes back as green as the rest by just following a few simple steps.

1. Find a grass seed that is similar to the grass in your yard. It doesn’t have to be the same seed, something that can be hard to find if you didn’t lay the original sod, but there are many varieties that will blend in.
2. Before you apply the grass seed, get the space ready. Just like when you are aerating the yard, prick the soil with a rake or a fork. Don’t go too deep since this is just a brick and not a full aeration.
3. As you work, remove any weeds, no sense leaving them there to choke the seeds you are putting down.
4. Take a steel head rake and level the surface that is bald or brown. The rake will create a small furrows for your grass seed.
5. Apply a thin layer of compost (about an inch) if you are not working with a bald space. You can also use a starter soil. Use the rake to create the small furrows.
6. Add the grass seed across the space. Make sure it covers well.
7. Take the rake and lightly draw it across the area in right angles. This will cover the furrows with a thin layer of the soil or compost.
8. Finish off by stretching black cotton thread over the area and tying the thread down with some stakes. This will keep the birds from eating all the seeds.
9. Finally, water and continue to water.

One final point to mention about repairing your lawn is to repair in October or early November at the latest. If it is too hot or dry, your grass seeds are not going to have a chance to grow and you will have wasted both the time and money it took to apply the seed.

All the best and goodluck with that green lawn.

Sirena Van Schaik

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I have never been overly fond of rock gardens, I find that many people will fill up a flower bed with a garden stone, throw in one or two shrubs and plants and call it a rock garden. I often found them plain and uninviting, at least the few I had seen, but the rock gardens at the Royal Botanical Gardens brought new definition to the term rock garden and I will be rethinking my whole “dream garden” yet again.

So here are a few pictures of the garden that I thought might inspire you a.

Use existing trees as the focal point to your rock garden.

Don’t feel like everything has to be surrounded by rocks. Use low lying plants for flower beds and don’t shy away from having grassy places for contemplation.

Use natural stone slabs for pathways and decks to draw the rock garden out from the flower beds to the yard.

Don’t be afraid of color.

Natural looking ponds offer variety and depth to a rock garden and can give you more variety of plants to play with.

And I hope you enjoyed my little tour of the Royal Botanical Garden’s rock garden. If you get a chance to go there, I would strongly recommend it for a day trip.

Sirena Van Schaik

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He, of course, just nodded since this is the same conversation that I have every time I pass by the statue center and I have passed by it at least 20 times in the last summer.

So why my aversion to landscaping statues? I think it comes down to the fact that most of them remind me of a tombstone and the rest are usually so cheaply made that it seems like a travesty to see them in a garden. Of course, that’s just me on a bad day, and I recently found out that my aversion to landscaping statues has less to do with the previously mentioned reasons and more to do with the fact that all the landscaping statues I like fall in the 200,000 dollars range.

If you haven’t guessed, writing doesn’t pay well enough for that type of expense on anything, let alone a statue.

Still, landscaping statues (ones that are much cheaper) can be used to really complete a landscape. When you are using a statue, it is better to look at the overall feeling you are trying to express. Is the landscape a quiet place for reflection? Or a busy area for guests and children? Will it have a lot of traffic or barely any?

Once you understand what the feeling is behind the space, you can usually find a perfect piece. Surprisingly, it isn’t always like your usual taste in statues but this is where the most success comes out of using landscaping statues. They fit the space and ultimately, even if they seem a little boring at first, they will fit you.

A landscaping statue should continue the flow of the area. If it provides contrast, it should not be a jarring contrast that leaves the viewer uneasy. (One example of this would be a life sized Jessica Rabbit statue in a Japanese rock garden, the flow would be horrible.)

Another point to make is that landscaping statues don’t need to focus on just the garden or the landscaping. A friend of mine, who is a Labrador Retriever breeder and a lover of the breed has a beautiful door that has Labs worked into it. It is very simple and you can barely notice it but when you do, all the various statues of Labs that she has in her garden, in front of the door make complete sense and compliment not only the garden but the entire house.

So, despite my earlier comments about landscaping statues, they really can be a compliment to any landscaped space.

Sirena Van Schaik

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